The film you are about to see is going to give you the education you need to be able to grow your own "amazing" vegetables. If you're not already a gardener you only need the decision to do what you are about to see being done. If you are already a gardener, I think you will enjoy seeing what I do in my little garden... and I'd love to see what you can do in yours!
New gardeners often ask, "When should I start my garden?" There's only one answer, no matter the time of year, "right now." If the ground is frozen, of course there's nothing you can do. Or is there? There is planning to be done-what part of the yard gets the morning sun? What vegetables would do well in that part of the yard that gets very little sun? How much space will I need to allow for a carrot bed, a lettuce bed, and where will the tomatoes go? There are seeds to order, and seeds that can be started indoors weeks before going into the garden bed.
Some climates allow gardening on a year around basis, most climatic zones in the US don't. When our favorite summer vegetables (tomatoes, eggplant, peppers, green beans, corn) are over for the season, and until spring planting time comes again, I concentrate on nourishing the soil. I'll plant beets, cauliflower, radishes, turnips, carrots and such things in about half my beds. In the other half I'll spread a pound or two of alfalfa hay and/or alfalfa meal, for each square foot of bed. I'll add the amount of bone meal, kelp meal and some organically approved nitrogen source (bloodmeal, guano, etc.) indicated on the package labels, dig it all into the soil and saturate the soil.
When whatever vegetables I had in the other half my beds come out, I’ll nourish those beds the same way, and usually then plant “cool weather crops” such as above, in the beds that were first fully fertilized.
After a few days, I scatter legume (beans, peas, etc.) seeds by hand, and spread a thin layer of straw or shredded alfalfa over that, just enough to cover them, and water it down. They'll grow well through our colder months. Just as the legumes start to blossom, I'll chop them up and dig them into the soil. The roots will be laden with nitrogen, and the green legumes dug into the soil will feed the earthworms, fungi, molds and other microorganisms that are vital to healthy soil. Then cover the bed with a sheet of 6 mil (millimeter) plastic (available in any hardware store) and put rocks in enough places around the edges to hold it down until planting time.
Clear plastic will allow the sun’s rays to radiate deeply into the soil. Warm soil will speed the germination, growth and health of all vegetables when you take the plastic off a week or two before you're ready to plant.The soil will get very hot when the green organic matter starts composting, and the heat can’t escape because of the plastic sheeting.When the soil cools off, but is still warm, you're ready to plant.Usually two weeks under the plastic will do the job.
If you have only one growing season, you probably want to make the most of it.As soon as last year’s garden is over, that’s the perfect time to get the bed ready for spring planting.By the time spring comes, all that organic matter will have broken down into a rich compost, complete with a replenishment of vitamins and minerals to the soil.Follow the package suggestions on any of the organic meals [fish, bone, kelp, etc.] you might use. In the case of any fertilizer, the idea "more is better," doesn't apply. You’ll have the best garden on the block!